Bryant park was truly pulsating with the heartbeat of Africa at the Arise African Collective F/W 2010. This fashion show, which is in its 3rd appearance is what the Marc Jacobs show is to downtown hipsters to us global mavens…and since the designers change every season, you never know what to expect.
This season featured three designers representing Nigeria, South Africa and Tanzania—but looking back at the show, everyone came prepared to remix it for New York with collections filled with muted tones and dark metals. The first collection which was by Black Coffee. No stranger to NYFW, the duo also known as Jacques Van der Watt and Danica Lepen may have European roots but have consistently turned out modern collections that reflect their South African heritage since 1998. I really enjoyed the shapes, the geometrical structure lit up the whole collection. I especially loved the way the fluidity of the inner pieces complements the bulk of the jackets.
The third collection - and have a feeling someone like Mariel Haenn (Rihanna's Stylist) would love was Nigerian maven and crowd favorite, Deola Sagoe who has been building an international following, including Oprah Winfrey and a bevy of Nigerian celebrities, since 1998. Her collection, Above The Fray, may have taken inspiration from Maasai warriors and 18th century military uniforms, but when it hit the runway it was all glam.
Woven fabrics, intricate detailing and structured forms mixed with a dark and metallic filled palette made for a presentation that was globally tuned and sharp. Having a power trio like Arlenis, Oluchi and Sesilee walk in your show doesn’t hurt either.
Overall, Arise did not disappoint. Even though Tanzanians Loin Cloth & Ashes, created by Anisa Mpungwe was not my cup of tea. I did like that she took a turn from the expected bright and pattern heavy expectations and decided to play with blacks, greys and beige with splashes of blue. The end result was a slightly disjointed collection, with the blue accents seemingly “thrown in” but came across as playful and easy. This designer who was inspired by her father’s village in Tanzania gave it a fair shot proving that she has staying power in the fashion industry.
By Gugulethu
